The Trails Ruts and Fort Laramie

The Trail Ruts

Admission, Trail Ruts: Free

Admission, Fort Laramie: Free with NPS pass

Guernsey, WY

Our hosts in Nebraska told us that we should not miss Fort Laramie and The Oregon/Mormon Trail Ruts in Wyoming. We drove west following Bill’s instruction, but somehow messed up. We found the town of Fort Laramie, but somehow missed the Fort. We had Maggie Mae plugged in. She kept changing her mind as to the direction we needed to go. So, we drove right through the town and onward. (Once Steve passes something, we rarely go back).

By wagon train, it is about one day's travel from Fort Lamarie.  By car, maybe a half hour.  When we pulled into the  town of Guernsey we found signs for the Trail ruts. It is a fairly small state park with a nice paved walking interpretive trail. The hundred of thousands of pioneers (between 350,000 and 500,000 are believed to have followed this trail) wore the sandstone down as they grunted and groaned their heavy loads over the hills. Eventually, the erosion from the wagon wheels caused very deep ruts. As newcomers came along, the trail became much more difficult. The ruts range from two to six feet deep. The ruts have been preserved

When people referred to the ruts, I had made the incorrect assumption that these ruts were in the dirt. They are not, but deeply gouged into the rock. Wagon wheels often got stuck, axles broke, wheels broke. One more challenge. The geography of the area dictated that practically every wagon that went west crossed the ridge in exactly the same place, with impressive results. Winding toward South Pass on the North Platte River these ruts are here for eternity.

The half-mile stretch is "unsurpassed" and is the best-preserved of Oregon Trail ruts anywhere according to Wyoming tourism. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1966.

The site is maintained as a State Historic Site within Guernsey State Park. It does not take a long time to visit this State Park, the walking trail slightly steep in portions is a relatively short and easy trail. The scenery is western wonderful.

If one has any interest in history, one more hardship for the travelers of these times is hereby exemplified. It was worth the stop.

www.wyomingtourism.org/overview/Oregon-Trail-Ruts/3830

http://www.nps.gov/oreg/planyourvisit/site7.htm

BEALE ST: Elvis sings to Molly

Elvis Sings to Molly

Our hosts in Memphis had invited us to come early and dine with them at their home. An alternative was to go to a local restaurant, but it was quite hot. So, Susan decided upon eating in.

After dinner, Susan and Kirk drove us to downtown Memphis. We grabbed a trolley for the Riverside Loop. Cost for seniors is a real bargain at $.50. The River Loop loops around the city—goes by Sun Records, where Elvis first recorded, the pyramid, and follows the Mississippi River and then loops back into the downtown area. It stops in front of the motel at which Dr. King was killed. There is a large wreath on the banister at the site. We did not get off, but continued back to the place where we had started.

A portion of Beale Street is closed to traffic on Friday and Saturday nights.  There is all kinds of entertainment.  We watched some street gymnasts doing their various flips for a while.  Music coming from every corner.  Every nook and cranny has some sort of music or other entertainment.  Blues is dominate from many of the clubs and restaurants.  The streets are flooded with wall to wall people...everyone seems to be happy and in a good mood.  Steve does not really like being in crowds.  But like me, he was really impressed with the crowds.  There is some reconstruction and renovation continually happening.  Some of the very old buildings have been torn down with the exception of the front facade.  Gives an interesting look to the place.

Our host, Kirk, had worked as an usher at the Orpheum when he was in his early teens.  He told us how he had to wear a bow tie.  Over the years, it became old and somewhat decrepit.  But, through renovation, it now looks like new and probably as it did in its glory days.  Lots happening on Beale Street.  Fun, high energy.

Susan and Kirk are the parents-in-law to Rayford, an Elvis impersonator. Now, I have never particularly been an Elvis fan. I did like some of his music and even some of his movies, but never cared to watch him on stage. When I called Susan, she asked me if I was an Elvis fan. NEVER say to anyone in the Memphis area that you are not a fan.  My answer was "not particularly!"  I lived to be embarrassed over that statement.

Beale Street, famous for its music…blues is home here. On the weekend evenings (we were there on a Friday night) several blocks of Beale Street are cordoned off. High visibility of police around. Various horse-drawn carriages abound. Some look like Cinderella’s coach. We noticed that almost every one of these carriages carried a dog in its front seat. We did not take a ride as our goal was a club in which Rayford was singing. We went and listened for a while. There was another gentleman, also an Elvis impersonator visiting from New Mexico, as well. His first name is Ray. Both sang. Both were very enjoyable.

I do not think there was a cover charge, but I could be wrong since we were guests of the in-laws.  Steve had a beer.

After a while, Rayford, “invited” me up on the stage, sat me down and sang “Welcome to My Heart.” It was a good song for me. They say horses sweat, men perspire and women glisten. Well, I can tell you, I certainly was glistening…huge drops of glisten were running down my back. It was embarrassing, exhilarating and so very much fun. I was further embarrassed when MY Elvis announced to the audience what I had told Susan-- that I was not a particular fan. But, I guess they forgave me. He also told the audience something else that I had mentioned to Susan. That was that we lived in a town with a sole blinking light (no other traffic lights). But that did not bother me as that is exactly how my town can be described.

Ray, the second Elvis, also had an opportunity to sing.  Both we quite good. 

The evening was thoroughly enjoyable. Thanks to all of you for this added attraction. This is something we never would have done on our own. And something we will NEVER forget.

If one were inclined, one could spend hours there with absolutely free entertainment (except for parking fees).  Of course, that is probably unlikely, as there are so many restaurants and bars and other ways to spend money.  But, truly, one can have a great inexpensive evening by doing a lot of people watching and wandering around, talking to folks, hearing some great music and learning a bit of local history.

Our hosts have met people on the street that have become life long friends.  The have hosted some of these visitors to Memphis in their home.  I cannot say enough about this evening.

Our room held lots of Elvis memorabilia, including a framed picture of him in his youth. The room was comfortable.

I love staying with local people. They know where the fun is and how to get to there—the shortcuts and places to park. It beats sitting in a motel room by a million miles.

Coming Soon

Our adventures and postings will not necessarily be in chronological order.  We left Florida early in the morning on August 5.  The dog had left the Sunday earlier with Lynne and went to South Florida to stay with his friend Mandy (carian terrier).  Our first night's stop was in Birmingham, next Memphis, then on to Forsyth and Gladstone MO with a stop during the day to visit with friend Linda in Ash Grove, MO.  Upon leaving Missouri, we continued to Des Moines, Iowa on to Lincoln, Nebraska.  Our next stop was Scotts Bluffs, Nebraska.  Continuing we spent three days in and around Casper, WY.  The next leg of the trip brought us to Custer, SD for two days and Sioux Falls, SD for one day.  The last two nights of visiting were with friends in Clinton, Iowa, a town on the west side of the Mississippi River.  We hit Nashville in the pouring rain and rush hour--not our finest moments. Overnight at a motel on the Tennessee/Georgia border.  Hit morning rush hour traffic in Atlanta with no rain. 

Confederate Memorial, Marbury Alabamaxx
Memphis by day
Lake Taneycomo, MO
Gladstone, MO
Iowa Welcome Station

Wyoming--Douglas, Casper and Lake Alcova
Don and Frank at Mickey D's
Custer, SD
Bike Week at Sturgis
Rushmore
Crazy Horse
Custer State Park
Wildlifexxx
Route 16A
Wall Drug-X
Sioux Falls
Mississippi River
Clinton and, Le Claire, Iowa (birthplace of Buffalo Bill Cody)-X
Race for home

Happy Birthday Betsy

Today is the fifteenth birthday of Betsy and the ninety-seventh anniversary of Steve's Mom's Birth.

Betsy came to us in 2004.  She had lived with a woman who was divorcing and leaving the state.  Sadie, also came to us at that time.  Betsy spend the better part of the first two years in high places such as on top of the refrigerator.  She was a bit stressed as she also had a very yappy dog living with the divorcee.  Now, she is one relaxed lady despite the Springer that lives here too.  She's my talker.  One can carry on a regular conversation with her. Unfortunately, the communication  part is not so good as I do not understand cat.  She does, however, seem to understand human.  She likes to be patted, but not held.  I am happy that she joined our family.

The Birthday Boy and O’Leno State Park

Steve’s birthday was the 14th. Bastille Day! I knew most of Steve’s family before I had ever met him. His Brother was the first one in the family that I met. He was dating (later married) a good friend of mine. He had joined the Navy out of high school. But when he was home, I would see him fairly often. We bantered and bickered endlessly. I liked the Brother immediately. This friendly fire never stopped until just before the Brother passed away in 2008.

While the Brother was on a Med[iterranean] cruise in his little boat, the aircraft carrier Saratoga, the friend and I went on a trip of our own…San Francisco, Hawaii, and Las Vegas with a group of over 200 folks from OES. I took lots of pictures. Mom wanted to see them. I had met Mom in a hospital room as we were both visitors a couple of years earlier. So, she invited my friend and me over for dinner one night. I now met Dad #2 and his sister Auntie, who was visiting from New Jersey.

Mom and I clicked immediately. Within a few days, I went with her to visit Gramma (her mother). In a conversation, she mentioned that Steve was to have a birthday on July 14. Being the history crazy that I am, I said, “Oh, Bastille Day!” I had not yet met Steve. But, I knew his birthday. (Short story…long).

I had not yet Steve, but knew Mom, Dad #2, Gramma, Brother, Auntie (and her dog) and, of course, my friend who would be his sister-in-law.

(When I finally met Steve—June 14, 1969--I was on a date with another guy…but that’s another story)

It has become a custom in this household that on one’s birthday and our anniversary—instead of giving gifts (when one is in one’s sixties, one does not need much—just more stuff to which one needs to get rid) we have started to do something special or go someplace special. We have a driving trip out West planned for later this year. We have, therefore, decided that that would be our special “to do” for both our birthdays. But, still it was his birthday, so we could do something different.

As one might be able to tell, we are big fans of Florida State Parks. Although, because of budget constraints, the fees have gone up dramatically, the parks are still a wonderful value. His choice was a park to which we had not yet visited—O’Leno just north of High Springs was his choice.

 

The motto for Florida State Parks is “…the Real Florida.” O’Leno was one of Florida’s first state parks. The town and area have a rich history. It was a boomtown until the railroad by-passed it in the late 1800’s. The original name was Keno…soon turned to Leno. The name of the park “O’Leno” is a contraction of Old and Leno.

Its sister park is River Rise Preserve is a whisker up the road—hiking trails connect the two. The two areas have a combined acreage of over 6,000 acres. Camping—youth, family, group, equestrian, cabins (bring your own linen). Trails—hiking, biking and equestrian. Canoeing and kayaking (rentals available) on the Santa Fe River. Swimming (both in the River and by trail to Sweetwater Lake). Picnicking.

Thirty-four miles of equestrian trails. Hiking trails range from a little over ½ mile to several miles. Most of the trails can be classified as “walking” trails. They are wide and easy. There are a few more difficult. It was a hot day so we did not walk very far. We are looking forward to revisiting in the fall to follow some of the many trails.

The Santa Fe River is a swamp feed river. This means that the water is consistently brownish—kind of like tea—from the tannic acid produced from the leaves of the bordering tress—many of which are cypress. It is not dirty or polluted—just brown. One of the trails brings one to a “natural land bridge” whereby the river flows underground for a little over three miles. It resurfaces and continues on its way.

 
Speaking of bridges…there is a walking suspension bridge over the river which connects some of the trails. This was really cool to cross and recross. It kind of bounces as one walks over it. It was built by the CCC in the 1930’s. The CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) is also responsible for much of the clearing of trials and general construction. It was a CCC camp.

The CCC was one the many work stimulus organizations started in the ‘30s to put people into jobs. It was made up of unskilled boys 18-24…55% from rural/45%, urban. Also, some service veterans were eligible. Only 11% had completed high school.

Conservation projects were performed from 300 possible types of work projects within ten approved general classifications: Structural Improvements, Transportation, Erosion Control, Flood Control, Forest Culture, Forest Protection, Landscape and Recreation, Range, Wildlife, and Miscellaneous—surveying and mosquite control, etc. The fruits of the toil of a quarter of a million young men can still be seen today. Food and shelter plus a small income—a portion was sent home to the families—gave these men great insentive to be a part of this program—deemed one of the most successful of the era.

There is a small museum and a bronze statue in the park dedicated to the work of these men. There are also remnants of the grist mill (some of the wheels and turnings) that once made the town properous. One can see in the river portions of the dam constructed to change the flow so that the mills would work.

One thing we found while investigating one of the campgrounds was a doe grazing behind one of the campers. When I hit the button to open my window, it startled her just enough for her to mosey away. So, we did a second circuit of the campground. She was back. I was able to get out of the car and walk toward her before she turned and went back into the woods. She did not bolt, but just kind of moseyed.

It was a fun day. We went out for dinner at a little place on the Withacoochee River—one of Steve’s favorite places..food is plain, simple and good. And the price—cheap, cheap, cheap. Great value. (The Front Porch in Dunnellon).

He was a cheap date!

Census Reprise

This phase of our census work is quickly winding down.  The CL is completing his job by fulfilling his self-defining description of himself.  He is a perfect A-- ----!!!!!!!!!  The only time I have ever seen perfection in anything before.  Some how being a perfect A-- ---- would never be a goal of mine, but he has done it SOOOOO well.

PAH (from the above letters...perfect A-- ----) has been very condescending to the women.  The men are first and foremost.  The best example of this is we have to meet with him every morning, but we do not have set times--any time between 7:30 and 9:00 am.  There is also an afternoon schedule, but I do not got to that.  We need to turn in our time sheets and any work completed the day before.  So, we form a queue, so to speak.  (We don't form a line as such, but sit and talk...we know who is next, however).  Enumerator one (female) gets there first.  PAH has to verify her stuff.  Enumerator two and three are also female.  Male enumerator walks in while he is verifying the work of enumerator two.  All of a sudden, he becomes next in the queue as "he has work to do!"  What the heck does the CL think we are doing.  The upside, however, is that we are on the clock--bored out of our gourd--but on the clock.

Once most of the guys have gone through the queue, they may stay and talk (still on the clock)...just chit chat, nothing that necessarily is part of the job.  PAH never says anything to any of the guys.  However, if I stop to talk (which is one of my favorite past times),  PAH will say "Good-bye, Molly" and make sure I am out the door.

PAH did do one thing for which one woman benefited (the rest of us are REALLY annoyed).  One of our group had to go to the hospital emergency room.  She still had twnety-five EQ's stretched over five books.  They were supposed to be split amongst those of us who were finished or close to being finished to give us some more time.  Instead, all twenty-five went to one woman.  Most of us were struggling to get to twenty-five hours this week.  This woman made forty and a ton more miles with this little bonus.  A lot of irritation in that room this morning. PAH had some lame excuse.  But, that does not change the situation.

Part of me is happy that this phase of the census may be over.  If I had to work for this guy for very long, my big mouth would get me fired.  That might be good!  Then, I could start a law suit or something.

There is a slight possibility that those of us who have finished (I turned in my last EQ's and book this morning) may be shipped out to any area that has not yet finished.  That would be good.  But I hope I don't have to work directly with this turkey any more.  We do have one last meeting...Tuesday morning.  Than, I hope I never see him again.  I have NEVER disliked working for anyone so much before.

I enjoyed the job and most of the people that I have met.  I could work at this so very much longer if I had the opportunity, and PAH was not involved.

"What a Friend We Have in Jesus"

Although well into his seventies, the Pastor of the church I attend is really quite up to date. He began his sermon today with FACEBOOK as his first illustration on his theme of having Jesus as a friend.

The hymns we sang had such friendship as a base for his theme.

“Oh, Jesus I have promised to serve Thee to the end

           Be Thou forever near me, My Master and my Friend.”

My personal all time favorite song is the hymn, What a Friend We Have in Jesus! My grandmother sang it to me as a youngster. Maybe, because she liked it so well, it became a favorite of mine. It is a song that really touches my heart, and I find very uplifting.

This was our closing hymn today.

Music was written by Charles C. Converse in 1868. I don’t know anything about Mr. Converse.

The words were written by Joseph M. Scriven in 1855 to his mother in the form of a poem as she dying. The poem was put aside and later found among her effects. Mr. Scriven did not receive credit for it for almost thirty years. Although Mr. Scriven was raised in a prosperous home, he had much adversary in his life, including the loss of two women he loved very much and died just before each of the planned weddings—one drowned; the other had TB. Yet through all this, Jesus was still close to him.

Coming out of Church, I mentioned that my two favorite hymns were included today. “What a Friend…” and “How Great Thou Art” which was played before the service started.

The woman to whom I was speaking, thought “What a Friend” was very depressing. I, on the other hand, oft sing it when I am most down in the dumps and find it uplifting.

It goes to show that two people can see or hear the very same thing and get two totally different views. I guess that can be true on anything in life. That is what makes us individuals!

Anyway, it is still my favorite hymn!

What a Friend we have in Jesus, all our sins and griefs to bear!

What a privilege to carry everything to God in prayer!

O what peace we often forfeit, O what needless pain we bear,

All because we do not carry everything to God in prayer.

Have we trials and temptations? Is there trouble anywhere?

We should never be discouraged; take it to the Lord in prayer.

Can we find a friend so faithful who will all our sorrows share?

Jesus knows our every weakness; take it to the Lord in prayer.

Are we weak and heavy laden, cumbered with a load of care?

Precious Savior, still our refuge, take it to the Lord in prayer.

Do your friends despise, forsake you? Take it to the Lord in prayer!

In His arms He’ll take and shield you; you will find a solace there.

Blessed Savior, Thou hast promised Thou wilt all our burdens bear

May we ever, Lord, be bringing all to Thee in earnest prayer.

Soon in glory bright unclouded there will be no need for prayer

Rapture, praise and endless worship will be our sweet portion there.