The Blue Whale and Other Travel Tales: Cedar Key

Cedar Key

http://www.cedarkey.org/

While there are no chain hotels and motels, Cedar Key's variety of lodging choices is excellent. From small housekeeping cottages, motels and efficiencies to private vacation homes and condos to historic Bed and Breakfasts, there is truly something to fit everyone's taste and budget.

Visit us in the Heart of Florida's Nature Coast, a recreational paradise. We are a small, relaxed, island community located three miles out in the Gulf of Mexico. Rich in small town flavor, it is said Cedar Key is the Island community where time stands still. Cedar Key is located on Way Key, the largest island in the "Cedar Keys".

The Cedar Keys make up one of the oldest bird and wildlife refuges in the United States. With its rich history and natural beauty, you may not want to leave!

Cedar Key is one of the oldest ports in the state, and when Florida's first railroad connected it to the east coast, it became a major supplier of seafood and timber products to the northeast. Today it has become a haven for artists and writers who find the unspoiled environment inspirational to their work.

Many people visit each year to walk the historic streets browse the shops and galleries, explore the back bayous and enjoy the world-famous restaurants featuring seafood fresh from local waters. Annually, thousands of visitors come to enjoy the Old Florida Celebration of the Arts in April, the Fourth of July Celebration and the October Seafood Festival.

In addition to excellent fishing, birdwatching and nearby nature trails, guides are available to take parties for off-shore trips to the outer islands. A public marina with boat docking is available.
Federally protected sanctuaries, the Cedar Keys form a chain of barrier islands ideally suited to a vast range of migratory and shore birds, including the elusive white pelican, roseate spoonbill and bald eagle. The variety of natural habitats, from salt marshes to Indian shell mounds, makes this truly a nature lover's paradise.

The above info is copied from the web-site shown.

And now, a few words from Molly!
The railroad was built by David Levy Yulee. Levy County which is the ninth largest county in area in Florida and is where Cedar Key sits was named for Mr. Yulee. There was also a Levyville and a Levytown, which today are barely nothing more than street signs.

Florida became a state in 1845. Mr. Yulee was one of the first two Senators (the first Jewish person to become a Senator). His wife, daughter of a Kentucky Governor, was Christian; his children raised in Christianity. He was related to Judah Benjamin, a Confederate Cabinet member (the first Jewish person to hold a cabinet post). Like his fellow Southern Senator Jeff Davis (and many others) he left the Senate when his state (Florida) seceded. He was imprisoned at Ft. Pulaski in Georgia briefly after the War for his Confederate leanings. Pre-war, he had become friends with U. S. Grant, who sought to have his friend freed from prison.

His railroad started near Jacksonville, crossed the northern part of the state somewhat diagonally to Cedar Key (which had a multitude of manufacturing companies, including pencils made from the local cedar trees). Today there is no manufacturing. Tourism and seafood--fish, clams, etc.--are its main source of income. Yulee also has a town near Jacksonville named Yulee. Many communities along the former railroad corrider celebrate Yulee days. The railroad continued south to what is now part of Crystal River and Homasassa. He had a plantation where he held slaves and grew sugar (among other things). Today a portion of his sugar mill is a state park. As one goes through the "sugarmill" area, there are lots of landmarks named for these mills...Sugarmill Restaurant, sugarmill this, sugarmill that.

During the Civil War, the Yankees burnt Yulee's plantation, but the sugar mill managed to make it through without any manjor damage. Today, the kettles and much of the syrup making processing equipment is still in tact in a tiny "state" park. It is kind of a drive through/walk through park with some nearby hiking trails. It is worth the few miles out of the way one needs to travel to see it (signs on US-19 will direct one to the "mill"). There is no admission and interpretive signs.

http://www.crystalriverstateparks.org/Yulee.html

One of the two other important railroad men in Florida was Flagler (whose railroad ran down the East Coast of Florida...Flagler County was name for him). The other was Plant for which Plant City--where so many strawberries have their nativity. His railroad ran from the East Coast across the State to Tampa.

Lynne had gone to Cedar Key once with another friend. They arrived around four o’clock in the afternoon…just about the time the stores were ready to close. Steve and I, on the other hand, have been there a gazillion times. We always enjoy the flora, fauna, scenery, the fishing pier, the artsy imaginations and walking from the small beach through downtown.

Steve, Lynne and I drove out. All of us walked around a bit, but when Lynne and I spent too much time in Crumundgeonalia, he started to get antsy. Since our friends Cathy and Jim were staying at a campground at the edge of Cedar Key, we sent him off to visit them with instructions to come back in an hour.

Crumundgeonalia is a delightful small book store. The proprietor is far from a curmudgeon, but an extremely knowledgeable gentle-men. Both Lynne and I could have spent houuuuurs there.

The upstairs of this building in the early 1900's was the Masonic Lodge. The stone that is the step to get into the shop is from that Lodge. The Curmudgeon told us that the Lodge did not last very long. He though it disappeared in the 1920's. He also told us that the downstairs was a bar. Since the traditional of most Masonic Lodges is "dry," I was surprised. But, then, who knows!

The island has lots of neat little gift stores that we wanted to investigate. Cedar Key, like many islands, is a mecca for tourists’ shopping. It has a plethora of small shops. It also has a huge number of art galleries. Restaurants abound along the western side of the island. Lots of seafood.

Lynne likes galleries and artsy co-ops. Her particular love is baskets—pine needle baskets are really a specialty at which to look. She demonstrates and weaves them at many events. We found several in a couple of different galleries. In her opinion, some were better than hers; some not as good. She is very talented, and I think hers are the best. But that comes from a very biased friend. Her baskets--all styles, sizes and media are always so cool. She has a knack for creating tiny baskets that can be worn as necklaces. Too much patience involved for me, but she does them well.

One gallery had a show of local quilts. One was all silk…a beautiful seascape. We oohed and aahed over it to the lady at the register. Turned out it was hers. Lynne bought me a bookmark made by the same lady with “quilted silk.”

Steve came back in the hour we talked about (actually, he was back in less than an hour). Lynne and I will go back to Cedar Key some day without him.

Driving around some of the back roads, one can find many beautiful Victorian houses and cottages. The hay-day of the pre-toursim run of late was the late 1800's when railroad traveling was at its peak.

The seascape vistas!!!! Wow!

On our return trip we stopped at the campground and visited for a quick time with Cathy and Jim. They were working in the café at the campground. So, our visit was not very long.